A vision in hot pink sequins, Margot Robbie confirmed at Sunday’s Golden Globes what style insiders had been murmuring for months: Barbie has come in from the fashion cold.
Her gown was a stunning homage to the outfit worn by the actual 1977 Superstar Barbie doll and was not simply run up by a costumier, but lavishly custom-created by Armani Privé for the red carpet awards show.
For years dismissed by designers as a frivolous, anti-feminist toy, Barbie is finally being taken seriously by the fashion world. Indeed, the past year has seen a whiplash-inducing volte-face in attitudes to the divisive doll – and it’s all thanks to fashion’s latest power duo — Margot Robbie, both co-producer and star of the movie, and her New York-based stylist Andrew Mukamal.
ARMANI PRIVE: Margot Robbie as the 1977 Superstar Barbie wearing Armani Prive at the 2024 Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles
The Superstar Barbie comes with a black version of the dress a version of which Armani Prive created for the actress to wear to the afterparty.
Together they have pulled off the haute couture coup of the century: convincing just about every major fashion house including Valentino, Versace, Prada and Chanel to recreate outfits worn by iconic Barbie dolls for Ms Robbie to model on the film’s worldwide press tour last summer.
Some were totally custom recreations, others a collaborative process part-custom, part-vintage.
First Versace recreated the power suit worn by 1984’s Day to Night Barbie, which Ms Robbie chose to wear to the film’s first international premiere in Seoul.
DILARA FINDILOGLU: As Barbie in a Red Swimsuit from 1962 wearing Turkish-British designer Dilara Findikoglu at a photocall for the film in London on July 12, 2023
VERSACE: As the 1985 Day-to-Night Barbie wearing Versace at the film’s premiere in Seoul on July 2, 2023
Then she wore Schiaparelli’s custom-made tribute to the 1960 Solo In The Spotlight Barbie for the film’s LA premiere days later.
A Pucci minidress complete with Chanel accessories was the perfect homage to the highest-selling Barbie of all time – 1992’s Totally Hair Barbie – which Ms Robbie wore for a photocall in Mexico. And the list goes on.
There was a Barbie look that every girl or woman would recognise, all made by design houses that are themselves hallowed household names.
PUCCI: As Totally Hair 25th Anniversary Barbie from 1992 wearing Emilio Pucci at the Mexico City Barbie photocall on July 7, 2023.
HERVE LEGER: As Black-and-White Bathing Suit Barbie from 1959 wearing Herve Leger at Bondi Beach, on June 26, 2023.
Why is this so groundbreaking? It’s not just the volume or calibre of designers Mukamal convinced to come on board. It’s that he took an idea that could so easily have flopped as a parody, a pastiche, and made it fashion, darling.
These weren’t fancy dress recreations. This was pin-sharp, highly desirable couture. Warner Bros should really give Mukamal a cut of the profits from the film.
The months-long red-carpet costume party he styled took nostalgia-soaked anticipation levels for the movie through the roof.
MOSCHINO: As the 1964 Sparkling Pink Barbie wearing Moschino in Seoul, Korea on July 3rd 2023
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: As 1960s Enchanted Evening Barbie wearing vintage Vivienne Westwood at The European Premiere of Barbie in London on July 12th 2023.
To my mind, it’s fair to say Barbie wouldn’t have won the first-ever Golden Globe for cinematic and box office success without Mukamal’s hype building through Ms Robbie’s red carpet fashion.
His triumph – of which last night’s Armani Prive creation was the sundae-topping cherry – is part of a wider rise of the celebrity super stylist.
In the past three years, the world of film has come to understand the crucial role stylists play in creating a line-blurring interplay between actor off-screen and character on-screen, which only serves to bolster appetite for the film in question.
BALMAIN: As the 1990s Earring Magic Barbie wearing Balmain at the Mexico City Premiere for the film on July 6, 2023
PRADA: As 1964’s Black Magic Barbie wearing Prada at The Gotham Awards in New York on November 27, 2023
Just as Mukamal has helped Ms Robbie become Barbie on the red carpet, so stylist Rebecca Corbin-Murray was responsible for Lily James’ transformation from demure Downton Brit to international bombshell concurrent with her role as Pamela Anderson in 2022’s Pam & Tommy.
What about the Oscars in March, you might ask? Surely Mukamal has run out of Barbie looks to recreate by now? In actual fact, there are myriad options still available – a rendering of the gold sequin bodice and tulle skirt worn by 1974’s Miss America Barbie (very Dior), the red and white puff sleeve creation from 1983’s Loving You Barbie (very Moschino), or the 1984 Dream Date Barbie – those corsages could be from hot new Polish designer Magda Butrym’s 2023 collections. That’s the glory of a fashion icon on the scene since 1959.
BOTTEGA VENETA: As Cherry Pie Picnic Barbie 2015 wearing Bottega Veneta at Deadline Contenders Film 2023 in Los Angeles on November 11, 2023
VALENTINO: Margot Robbie as 2015s Pink & Fabulous Barbie wearing Valentino at a photocall for the film at the Four Seasons Hotel in Los Angeles on July 25, 2023
SCHIAPARELLI: As the 1960 Solo in the Spotlight Barbie wearing Schiaparelli Haute Couture at the Barbie World Premiere in Los Angeles on July 9, 2023
PRADA: The actress as the new 2023 Greta Gerwig Barbie – Ms Gerwig directed the film – wearing Prada at Caesars Palace, Las Vegas on April 25, 2023
VERSACE: As the 2018Happy Birthday Barbie wearing Versace at the Barbie Celebration Party in Sydney, on June 30th 2023