Glitz and glamour dominated the start of Melbourne’s Spring Racing Carnival, and as thousands of punters flocked to Flemington Racecourse over the weekend many were asking after one particular blonde.
One chic attendee made the black-and-white Derby Day theme her own by melding the high fashion stakes world of the races with a TikTok and runway certified micro-trend.
Emily Gurr ponied up to Derby Day in a chic take on the cowgirl aesthetic that left many celebrity attendees’ expensive looks in the dust.
The cowboy and cowgirl aesthetic has been trending since March, when Taylor Swift kicked off her seemingly never-ending Eras Tour.
Though the Western wardrobe look has never truly disappeared, the ‘Swift Lift’ saw the humble cowboy boot and hat enter the mainstream in a whole new way.
But it’s a trend easier said than done.
With plentiful design options and colourways for hats, boots and collared-shirt combinations, there’s a fine thin line between looking modish and intentional and looking like you’re late for a Halloween party.
So who is Emily, and how did she bend racing’s famously strict fashion rules without breaking them?
Emily Gurr ponied up to Derby Day in a chic take on the cowgirl aesthetic that left many celebrity attendees’ expensive looks in the dust
Emily Gurr is a model and creative director with a pretty substantial social media following.
On Saturday, she rocked a black Armani suit paired with knee-high Jimmy Choo riding boots, a black and gold bolo tie and carried a black leather Miu Miu bag.
The pièce de résistance, though, was a bespoke cowgirl hat by n milliner Nerida Winter.
The respected race wear designer created half a dozen head pieces for the Derby Day event, but pridefully posted three photographs of her work with Emily to the grid.
‘The moment where one iconic woman meets another,’ Winter captioned one, also writing: ‘So in love with Emily Gurr rocking the perfect blend of masculine and feminine energy.’
Emily left her blonde locks out for the occasion and wore a full face of glam makeup, while also leaving the bottom half of her suit shirt unbuttoned to flaunt her midriff.
Emily rocked a black Armani suit paired with knee-high Jimmy Choo riding boots, a black and gold bolo tie and carried a black leather Miu Miu bag
In a recent interview with fashion tome Harper’s Bazaar, the model-turned-businesswoman said opening the Beverly Rooftop bar in Melbourne ‘has been so much fun.’
‘It’s been a lot of blood, sweat and tears but it has pushed me out of my comfort zone.’
The Sydney-born model has accrued 108,000 followers on Instagram, where she shares her often ’70s inspired-yet-modernised ensembles.
She lives between the Harbour City and ‘s cultural capital, where she currently helms the Californian-themed cocktail bar with views of Melbourne’s skyline.
The pièce de résistance, though, was a bespoke cowgirl hat by n milliner Nerida Winter
Emily (centre) pictured on Derby Day with TV personality Saskia Wotton
The origins of Derby Day’s black-and-white custom are disputed, but it remains one of the strictest of all dress codes of the entire racing seasons.
One of the most popular theories is that it emerged across the pond, more than two centuries ago in 1787, the Earl of Derby’s horse won the race while wearing black and white colours.
Some others believe the theme began in 1910 when King Edward died, and in true Edwardian fashion racegoers swapped out their best clothes for mourner’s black.
It’s also possible that an in n Women’s Weekly, circa 1960, may have started the tonal dress code.
In collaboration with whiskey manufacturer James Buchanan and Co and to celebrate its Black & White whiskey, Melbourne Cup attendees were offered a chance to win a £200 wardrobe prize (the equivalent of more than $7000 today) for the person with the best outfit on the field.
There was a catch however, attendees must dress in black and white.
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Rebecca Judd and Nadia Bartel lead celebrity arrivals to Derby Day at Flemington Racecourse
Modernising or bending the traditional race day attire rules is a fraught process.
It could mean you take home the fashion stakes award and bragging rights, or just as easily are denied entry because you’re deemed to be ‘inappropriate’ dress.
Just take it from British model Jean Shrimpton, who infamously wore a scandalous (by 1960 standards) mini DuPont dress for Derby Day.
Her hemline sat 13cm above the knee, shockingly without stockings, gloves, and hat.
The move was deemed outrageous at the time, although the model said she didn’t ‘see what was wrong with the way I looked’.
‘I feel Melbourne isn’t ready for me yet,’ she added. ‘It seems years behind London.’
This year alone, fashion marketplace Depop saw a 15 per cent surge in users searching for ‘western’ items.
That’s cowboy and cowgirl boots, wide-brimmed hats, fringe, and lots and lots of leather.